Ihlara Valley

Ihlara Valley shows Cappadocia's green face. Around Goreme the valleys are pale and dry. Down in the south, this canyon instead offers a river, shade, poplars and birdsong. In walls that rise to around 100 metres, Byzantine monks cut and painted churches. A typical visit means about four kilometres on foot along the river, followed by a meal at a restaurant whose tables sit over the water.

At a glance

Origins of the canyon

Ihlara sits below Mount Hasan, among the volcanoes whose ash and lava buried Cappadocia. Cutting down through those soft layers, the Melendiz river formed a narrow gorge some 14 kilometres long, running north from Ihlara village to Selime. Even in summer the floor of the valley stays green.

From around the 6th to the 13th century the canyon drew monastic communities. Monks and villagers alike cut churches, chapels, houses and tombs into the rock. Erosion has claimed many of them, but dozens survive and several keep their wall paintings.

Sights

• Agacalti Church. Near the main stairway; its frescoes include the Ascension and episodes from Christ's life.
• Sumbullu Church. A rock front on two levels with arched niches, carved to resemble a free-standing building.
• Yilanli Church. Locals call it the "Church of the Snakes" because of its scene of sinners being punished by serpents.
• Kirkdamalti Church. Near Belisirma, with 13th-century paintings, and connected to a Christian patron of the Seljuk era, which shows how the communities shared the land.
• The river. The trail tracks the water under poplars and willows, crossing on stepping stones and little bridges.

The standard walk

Most people come in through the main gate, go down several hundred steps on a long stairway to the canyon floor and see two or three churches at the bottom. The path then follows the river for about four kilometres to Belisirma village. There, riverside restaurants put out platforms over the water and serve grilled meat and trout, and tour buses pick up their groups. Walkers with spare time can carry on north toward Selime, where the canyon widens.

Who will enjoy it

Ihlara suits walkers and anyone in need of a break from the crowds at Goreme. Anyone who struggles with stairs should enter at Belisirma instead. Children usually prefer the river and its stepping stones to the churches. With only one day in Cappadocia, see the northern sights first and save Ihlara for day two or three.

When to go

The best months are April to June in spring and September to October in autumn, when it is mild and the trees are green or golden. Summer is hot on the stairs but pleasant beside the river. Winter can leave the paths icy and makes the stairway tough going. Groups turn up in the late morning, so if you start at opening time you get the churches to yourself.

Our guided Green Tour with lunch spends seven hours on Selime Monastery, the Ihlara walk and Derinkuyu Underground City, starting at US$70. A private guide and driver come with the private Cappadocia tour of one to three days, which includes Ihlara and costs from US$400 per day. If you start in Istanbul, the two-day Cappadocia trip with flights includes both Red and Green tours (from US$800).

Tips

• Expect a steep main stairway. With bad knees, start at Belisirma instead, which has a level path.
• Bring water; there is little chance to buy any before you reach Belisirma.
• No flash photography inside the painted churches.
• In the darker chapels a torch or phone light is useful.
• Our Derinkuyu Underground City page covers the stop that usually opens the day.

Frequently Asked Questions