Cappadocia Travel Guide

Cappadocia is a whole region, not a single town. It spreads across part of central Turkey, roughly between Nevsehir, Kayseri and Aksaray. Here volcanic ash hardened into soft rock, and wind and water shaped it into cones, pillars and deep valleys. For centuries people carved homes, churches and entire underground cities into this rock. Most visitors now stay in Goreme, Uchisar or Urgup, and the balloons rising over the valleys at dawn have become the region's best-known image.

Reasons to go

The scenery comes first, and each valley looks different. Rose Valley has pink and white ridges, Pasabag has chimneys shaped like mushrooms, and Ihlara is a long green canyon. Next come the churches cut into the rock. At the Goreme Open-Air Museum you find painted Byzantine churches dating from about the 10th to 12th centuries, and some frescoes, for example in the Dark Church, keep their original colours. Third are the underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, where tunnels, stables and storerooms descend over several levels far below ground.

How long to stay

Plan at least two full days; three work better. When the wind is too strong, balloon flights are called off, so extra days give you another morning or two to fly. A typical plan:

• First day, the Red Tour: the Goreme Open-Air Museum, Pasabag, Devrent, pottery in Avanos, Uchisar castle and a valley walk as the sun sets.
• Second day, the Green Tour: the underground city at Derinkuyu, a hike in Ihlara Valley and the monastery at Selime. This is the route of our Green Tour with Ihlara, Derinkuyu and Selime.
• Third day: a sunrise balloon flight, then time to yourself, a Love Valley hike or wine tasting in Urgup.

With just a weekend, our 2-day Cappadocia flight package from Istanbul takes care of flights, hotel and guide.

When to go

From April to June and in September and October, days are mild, nights are cool and balloon conditions are at their best. July and August have hot afternoons but dry air, and the mornings stay comfortable. Winter is cold, with nights often below zero. Snow on the chimneys is beautiful, yet more balloon flights are cancelled and some valley trails get muddy. Whatever the season, bring a warm layer for the balloon, because dawn in the valleys is cold even in summer.

Travelling from Istanbul

The region has two airports, Kayseri (ASR) and Nevsehir Kapadokya (NAV). The flight from Istanbul lasts about 1 hour 15 minutes. Getting to Goreme takes around 40 minutes from Nevsehir and just over an hour from Kayseri. Night buses from Istanbul need about 10 to 12 hours; you save a hotel night but lose a day's energy. You can also drive from Istanbul, about 730 km, usually with a break in Ankara.

Highlights

• A balloon flight at sunrise. The private Cappadocia tour with hot air balloon pairs the flight with a day of guiding.
• The painted churches at the Goreme Open-Air Museum.
• The tunnels of the Derinkuyu or Kaymakli underground city, which are not for anyone uneasy in tight spaces.
• A valley walk: Love Valley, Pigeon Valley, or Rose and Red Valley as the sun goes down.
• A horse ride or ATV trip along the ridges.
• An evening Turkish night show or whirling dervish ceremony.
• A pottery demonstration in Avanos, beside the Red River.

Choosing a base

Goreme is the hub, with the most cave hotels and restaurants and the balloon launch fields nearby. Uchisar sits higher and is quieter, with broad views. Urgup is a real town, with more restaurants and the wineries. Ortahisar is the peaceful village choice. Staying in a cave room is part of the trip, although rock-cut rooms can be darker and cooler than standard ones. Browse our Cappadocia hotels.

Food and wine

Testi kebab is the local speciality: meat and vegetables cooked slowly in a sealed clay pot that is broken open at your table. Also try manti (tiny dumplings served with yoghurt), gozleme and the region's dried apricots. Wine has a long history in Cappadocia, and Urgup and nearby villages grow grapes such as Emir and Kalecik Karasi.

Useful advice

• Balloon operators make the call on the morning of the flight. If yours is cancelled, ask to move to the following day.
• Wear shoes that grip; valley paths are dusty and steep in parts.
• The Open-Air Museum is most crowded in late morning, so arrive early or after 3 pm.
• Sites are further apart than the map suggests, and a car with a driver saves plenty of time.

Every one of our Cappadocia tours is private and can begin at your hotel.