Ortahisar Castle

Most visitors go to Uchisar Castle. Ortahisar Castle, 6 kilometres to the east, is nearly as high, much less busy, and looks down on a village where traditional Cappadocian life carries on. The rock rises roughly 90 metres higher than the houses and is full of rooms and passages. A path and stairs lead up to a viewpoint on top. The municipality sets the small entry fee.

Quick facts

Background

Ortahisar means middle fortress. People hollowed out the rock over many centuries. In the Byzantine era it was a refuge and watchpoint, with rooms piled one above another inside the outcrop and connected by tunnels and stairs. In later times it became part of village life, used as housing and for storage. Erosion made it unsafe, and visitors were kept out from the early 2000s. It reopened around 2013 after restoration and strengthening, now with fresh steps, railings and a summit viewing platform.

What to see

• The ascent. A path and stairs, partly carved into the rock, pass through old rooms on the way to the top. Allow 15 to 20 minutes at a gentle pace.
• The view from the top. In clear weather you see Mount Erciyes, the snowy volcano to the east, along with the valleys running towards Goreme and Urgup.
• The inner rooms. Several chambers on the route still show carved niches, cisterns and tool marks.
• The village. Many of the old stone houses on the streets below the castle have carved doorways. Tea houses line a small square, and souvenir shops are fewer than in Goreme.
• Cold stores in the rock. The village is known for rock-cut stores that keep Mediterranean lemons, oranges and potatoes at a constant cool temperature. Trucks may be loading outside when you pass.

A walk through Ortahisar

The village deserves an hour by itself. From the castle, head down to the mosque and the old square, then take the lanes to the village edge, where houses become fewer and the ground falls away into the valleys. To the south, paths enter Pancarlik Valley, which has small rock-cut churches; to the west they head towards Kiliclar and Goreme. Many homes are half carved into the rock and half built of stone. Several are empty now, though their facades still carry 19th-century carved decoration.

In the square's tea houses the village men gather, and a visitor is welcome to sit down with them for tea. A handful of small restaurants cook home-style food like local bread and testi kebab, generally at lower prices than in Goreme.

When to go

The light on the rock and the valleys is best in late afternoon. At sunrise you can often watch balloons from the village, since many float east towards Ortahisar. The steps have no shelter, so avoid the castle in ice, heavy rain or strong wind.

Our private Cappadocia tour of one to three days includes Ortahisar Castle, priced from US$400 per day with a private guide. It is also part of the two-day private trip from Istanbul, which has flights included and a balloon flight as an option. If you are combining regions, the four-day route through Ephesus, Pamukkale and Cappadocia stops here too.

Tips

• Some steps are uneven and narrow, so the climb does not suit anyone with vertigo or limited mobility.
• Have small Turkish lira notes or coins ready for the fee.
• Pair it with the nearby Pancarlik Valley churches or a drive to Urgup.
• To photograph the whole castle, walk a short way out along the Urgup road to the viewpoint.

Other sights in the area are in our Cappadocia guide.

Frequently Asked Questions