Ephesus Travel Guide

Ephesus lies on the edge of Selcuk, around 20 minutes' drive from Kusadasi cruise port and about an hour from Izmir airport. In Roman times it was among the biggest cities in the east: a harbour town with a theatre, a library, baths and streets paved in marble. The coastline has since moved several kilometres away, one reason so much of the city has survived.

Why go to Ephesus

At very few ancient sites can you walk the length of a whole city street. Here you come in close to the upper gate and head down Curetes Street, passing fountains, temples and public latrines, until you reach the Library of Celsus, whose reconstructed two-storey facade is the site's most famous view. Just beyond is the Great Theatre, which held about 25,000 spectators. Under a modern roof, the Terrace Houses reveal how wealthy residents lived, with their mosaic floors and wall paintings still in place.

Ephesus is a place of Christian pilgrimage as well. Paul lived and taught here, the Epistle to the Ephesians was written to its church, and tradition holds that the Virgin Mary spent her final years in a small house on the hillside above. In Selcuk, the Basilica of St John is built over what is thought to be the apostle's grave.

Time needed

With a guide, the ancient city takes 2 to 3 hours, slightly longer with the Terrace Houses, which need their own ticket. A full day normally adds the House of the Virgin Mary, the lone surviving column of the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders), the Basilica of St John and the Ephesus Museum in Selcuk. All of this fits into one day on our private Ephesus highlights tour. Allow two days if you also want Sirince village, Pamukkale, or the nearby ancient cities of Priene, Miletus and Didyma.

When to go

The most comfortable months are April, May, late September and October. In July and August temperatures often climb above 35°C and the marble offers almost no shade, so arrive at opening time or come in the late afternoon. The largest cruise groups tend to arrive between mid-morning and early afternoon; if you are not travelling by ship, stay away at those times. Winter is mild, green, often wet and almost deserted.

From Istanbul

Fastest is a flight of about 1 hour 10 minutes to Izmir (ADB), then roughly an hour by road to Selcuk. Our Ephesus day trip from Istanbul with flights takes care of both flights and the guide within one day. Driving from Istanbul to Selcuk covers about 550 km and takes around 6 to 7 hours using the newer motorway and the Osmangazi Bridge. Cruise travellers land at Kusadasi port, and our private Ephesus shore excursion from Kusadasi is planned around the ship's schedule.

Best experiences

• Walking down Curetes Street to the Library of Celsus in the morning light.
• The Terrace Houses, where frescoes and mosaics remain in the rooms.
• The Great Theatre, scene of the riot against Paul told in Acts.
• The House of the Virgin Mary on Bulbul Mountain.
• Sirince, a village in the hills famous for fruit wines and old stone houses.
• The Ephesus Museum in Selcuk, which holds the two statues of Artemis.
• Seeing the ruins in the evening, when night openings are on.

Where to stay

Selcuk is the nearest base to the ruins: small, easy to walk around, with family-run hotels. Kusadasi is a larger resort town with the port, beaches and a wider choice of restaurants. Sirince is good for a calm night in the hills. Izmir, around an hour away, suits those who want a big city and the airport. See our Ephesus and Kusadasi hotels.

Local food

Aegean cooking is based on olive oil and greens. Order zeytinyagli dishes (vegetables cooked in olive oil and eaten cold), wild herbs, grilled fish in Kusadasi, and cop sis, the small lamb skewers Selcuk is famous for. Sample the fruit wines in Sirince, although some are rather sweet. In Izmir, try boyoz pastry and kumru sandwiches.

Practical tips

• From April on, carry a hat, sunscreen and water, as shade is scarce.
• Choose shoes with a good grip; the marble paving has been worn smooth and can be slippery.
• The Terrace Houses and the Ephesus Museum each require a separate ticket.
• A licensed guide is worth it here. The signs say little, and the stories behind the buildings are the best part.

Combine it with Pamukkale on our 2-day Ephesus and Pamukkale private tour, or browse all our Ephesus tours.