Mount Nemrut (Nemrut)

On a bare summit 2,134 metres high in south-eastern Turkey, a king made a mountain of his own. Antiochus I ruled Commagene, a small kingdom wedged between Rome and Parthia. Over what is thought to be his tomb he piled a cone of loose stones around 50 metres tall, and along its terraces he placed huge seated statues of the gods and of himself. Earthquakes knocked the heads off; today they stand in rows on the ground, gazing across the plains. Seeing the sun come up or go down behind them is a highlight of any trip to Turkey.

At a glance

Background

Commagene was a minor kingdom on the upper Euphrates. Its rulers traced their line to the Persian royal family and to Alexander the Great, and their art blends Persian and Greek styles. Antiochus I, king in the 1st century BC, founded his own religion combining Greek and Persian gods, and designed Nemrut as both sanctuary and grave.

The statues place the king among Zeus-Oromasdes, Apollo-Mithras, Heracles-Artagnes and the goddess of Commagene, with lions and eagles standing guard. A big relief of a star-covered lion is often called one of the world's oldest horoscopes. Rome took over the kingdom in 72 AD, and the sanctuary lay forgotten until travellers described it in the 19th century. It joined the UNESCO list in 1987.

Sights

• East terrace. The row of seated bodies in the best condition, with the fallen heads set out before them. Sunrise watchers gather here.
• West terrace. Further heads, lower down and easier to study up close, plus the lion horoscope relief. This is the sunset spot.
• The tumulus. The cone of broken stone itself; nobody has yet dug through it to a burial chamber.
• Arsameia. Covered by the same ticket, this site on the lower slopes has a big relief of Antiochus shaking hands with Heracles, along with a long inscription in Greek.
• Cendere Bridge. A Roman bridge on the Kahta road that pedestrians still use.

Dawn or dusk?

Sunrise is the traditional pick. It involves setting off from Kahta or Karadut in darkness, between about 02:30 and 04:00 depending on the time of year, then waiting in the cold on the east terrace. Sunset is less demanding and often quieter, and the light falls on the heads of the west terrace. The official site gives early opening hours for its night museum programme, so find out how sunrise entry works for foreign visitors before you make plans. Either way, pack a warm jacket; before dawn the summit can be near freezing even in August.

Walking up

A rough path leads from the car park and café near the top to the terraces in roughly 20 minutes. One short section is steep and the air is thin, so take your time. Expect no shade and possibly strong wind.

When to go

The summit can usually be reached from around May to October. Snow frequently closes the upper road in winter. The weather is most settled from June to September, and autumn sees fewer visitors.

The 2-Day Nemrut & Gobeklitepe Tour with Flights flies you from Istanbul to Mount Nemrut and Gobeklitepe with a night in Sanliurfa, from US$1,050. The Private Mt. Nemrut & Gobeklitepe Tour from Istanbul with Flights visits the same places with a guide of your own. For a longer trip, the Ancient Civilizations of Southeastern Turkey Tour spends nine days across Gaziantep, Nemrut, Sanliurfa and Mardin.

Tips

• Sleep in Kahta or Karadut so you are near the summit at sunrise.
• Pack a torch for walking the path in the dark.
• Pair the visit with Gobeklitepe, around three hours' drive to the south.
• The summit café offers only basic tea and snacks, so carry water.

Frequently Asked Questions