Balat and Fener (Fener and Balat)

Balat and Fener lie next to each other along the southern shore of the Golden Horn, about 15 minutes from Sultanahmet by taxi. There is no ticket office for either. You climb steep lanes of brightly coloured houses, visit churches and synagogues that have served the same communities for hundreds of years, and rest in cafés set up in former corner shops. A first visit needs half a day.

Quick facts

A short history

Following the Ottoman conquest, Greek Orthodox families settled in Fener around the Patriarchate, and the wealthiest, known as the Phanariots, worked for the sultans as governors and translators. Neighbouring Balat turned into a Jewish quarter, above all once Sephardic Jews driven out of Spain arrived in the 1490s; Bulgarians and Armenians also lived here. Most of these communities departed during the 20th century and the houses decayed. In the 2000s a restoration programme fixed many of the facades, and the area began drawing café owners and photographers. Not every local welcomes the attention.

A walking route

1. The Ecumenical Patriarchate in Fener, where the Orthodox Patriarch has had his seat since 1601. Inside the Church of St George are relics and a carved iconostasis. Since 1821, when Patriarch Gregory V was hanged at the main gate, it has stayed shut.
2. The Phanar Greek Orthodox College, the domed red-brick building on the hill, built in 1881-1883. It still operates as a school, so you view it from outside.
3. The Bulgarian St Stephen Church by the water, assembled from prefabricated cast iron parts sent from Vienna and consecrated in 1898.
4. Balat's coloured houses along Kiremit Caddesi and the lanes rising from it, the scene of most social media photos.
5. Ahrida Synagogue, one of the oldest in Istanbul, known for its reading platform shaped like a boat. You must arrange a visit with the Jewish community beforehand.
6. Church of St Mary of the Mongols, up a lane close to the college; it is the one Byzantine church in Istanbul that was never turned into a mosque.

Best time to visit

On weekday mornings the streets are quiet and the light suits the houses. At weekends, afternoons bring crowds of photographers and queues outside cafés. The Patriarchate holds liturgy on Sunday mornings; if you come early you can attend quietly.

Our Private Istanbul Jewish Heritage Tour covers 2,400 years of Jewish history in four to five hours, the Balat synagogues among them, and takes care of the advance requests. Over seven hours, the Istanbul Active Churches Tour with Private Guide includes the Patriarchate in Fener along with other churches. The Best of Istanbul: 1, 2 or 3-Day Private Guided Istanbul Tour usually pairs Balat and Fener with the Chora Church.

Tips

• These are people's homes. Don't photograph through windows or into doorways, and ask residents before taking their picture.
• The lanes are cobbled and steep, so wear proper walking shoes.
• Arriving by Golden Horn ferry is slow, cheap and pleasant, but boats are infrequent, so check the timetable.
• On Kiremit Caddesi the cafés charge more than the plain tea houses a street away.
• Add the Chora Church, a 20-minute walk uphill, or picnic in the Golden Horn shore park.

Our Istanbul destination page lists more neighbourhoods worth exploring.

Frequently Asked Questions