Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchate (Aya Yorgi)

Seen from the road, the Ecumenical Patriarchate does not look like much: a walled complex on a Fener hillside, with a gate and a security booth. Still, it is the spiritual heart of Orthodox Christianity and has been the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople since 1601. Visitors may enter its main church, St George (Aya Yorgi in Turkish), free of charge.

At a glance

Background

The Patriarchate remained in Constantinople after the Ottoman conquest of 1453. It used a number of churches in turn until it settled in Fener in 1601. Fires destroyed the earlier buildings, so the Church of St George as it stands today took shape in the 18th century, and it has been restored repeatedly since then.

A well-known story belongs to the middle gate of the compound. In April 1821, as the Greek War of Independence began, the Ottoman authorities ordered Patriarch Gregory V to be hanged there. The gate was then shut and has never reopened; visitors come in through a side door.

The 20th century was difficult for the Patriarchate. Istanbul's Greek community, which once numbered well over 100,000, is now down to a few thousand, and the theological school on Heybeliada island has not operated since 1971. A fire in 1941 caused heavy damage to the compound, and several buildings were rebuilt during the 1980s.

The Patriarch today heads the Church of Constantinople and is given a place of honour among the Orthodox churches of the world. Bartholomew I has been Patriarch since 1991.

Highlights

• Iconostasis. An 18th-century carved wooden screen in gold leaf, with tiers of icons standing before the altar.
• Patriarchal throne. Tradition links this carved throne with St John Chrysostom, although the present version is certainly far later.
• Relics. A piece of column kept in a niche is honoured as part of the pillar at which Christ was scourged. The church also holds relics of St Gregory the Theologian and St John Chrysostom, which Pope John Paul II sent back from Rome in 2004.
• Icons. The walls carry a number of old icons in silver covers, mosaic icons among them.

How to behave

You are entering a working church and an office rather than a museum. Keep your voice low, switch off the flash, and never pass in front of anyone at prayer. Taking photos inside without flash is normally permitted, but follow signs and staff instructions. Bags are scanned at the door.

When to go

Late mornings on weekdays tend to be quiet. On Sunday mornings the Divine Liturgy takes place; visitors can attend in silence, but sightseeing pauses while it lasts. Big feast days, Easter and St Andrew's day on 30 November among them, bring crowds and official delegations.

The Istanbul Active Churches Tour with Private Guide begins at the Fener Patriarchate and goes on to Armenian, Catholic, Russian and Bulgarian churches over seven hours, from US$115. Our Best of Istanbul Private Guided Tour also takes in Fener and Balat and can stop at the Patriarchate, from US$199 per day.

Around the Patriarchate

The compound stands in Fener, the old Greek quarter. Up the hill rises the red-brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College, and on the waterfront is the cast-iron Bulgarian Church of St Stephen. Walk a few streets west to reach Balat, with its painted houses and cafes. Our Balat and Fener page has more.

Practical advice

• Have your passport or ID with you in case security asks.
• Golden Horn buses, or the ferry to the Fener or Balat piers, are simpler than coming by car.
• If you want to give, there is a small donation box near the entrance.
• Add Chora Church, roughly 20 minutes on foot up the hill.

Frequently Asked Questions